Ulan-Ude, Russia

The Buddhist heart of Siberia — the world's largest Lenin head, Ivolginsky Datsan, and the Buryat culture where Russia meets Mongolia

Ulan-Ude is the capital of the Republic of Buryatia in southeastern Siberia, sitting at the confluence of the Selenga and Uda rivers just 100km east of Lake Baikal. It is one of Russia's most culturally distinct cities — the indigenous Buryat people are Mongolian in origin and have practised Tibetan Buddhism since the 17th century, making Ulan-Ude the Buddhist capital of Russia. The city centre is dominated by the world's largest Lenin head (7.7 metres, 42 tonnes), a Soviet-era installation that has become the city's unlikely symbol.

Ulan-Ude was founded as a Cossack winter camp in 1666, becoming the merchant city of Verkhneudinsk on the Trans-Siberian tea trade route between China and Europe. The Buryat people — the largest indigenous group in Siberia — adopted Tibetan Buddhism in the 17th century and built Ivolginsky Datsan (1945), which became the centre of Soviet-era Buddhist revival and remains the most important Buddhist monastery in Russia. The city was renamed Ulan-Ude (Red Uda) in 1934 under Soviet rule, but Buryat language, food, and shamanic traditions persisted alongside official Marxism.