Skopje, North Macedonia

Baroque fountains, Ottoman bazaar, and the Balkans' most theatrical street-food city

Skopje is Europe's most surreal capital — rebuilt in a neo-Baroque theatrical style after a devastating 1963 earthquake levelled the modern city, it now fills its riverfront with colossal fountains, neoclassical bridges, and hundreds of statues, while preserving one of the Balkans' oldest Ottoman bazaars (Čaršija) just across the Vardar. The food scene bridges both worlds: tavče gravče (baked bean casserole) and pastrmajlija (Macedonian meat flatbread) at Old Bazaar lunch spots, and wood-fired lamb at the neighbourhood restaurants of Debar Maalo.

Skopje has been continuously inhabited since the Neolithic period and served as the Roman city of Scupi, a staging post on the Via Egnatia. It was the seat of Stefan Dušan's medieval Serbian empire in the 14th century, then fell to Ottoman rule from 1392 to 1912. The catastrophic earthquake of 26 July 1963 killed over 1,000 people and destroyed much of the modern city, prompting a UNESCO-backed rebuild whose master plan was drawn up in part by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange.