Rovinj, Croatia

Istrian jewel — pastel harbourside, truffles, and Venetian bells at golden hour

Rovinj is the most postcard-perfect town on the Croatian coast — a jumble of pastel ochre and terracotta houses rising on a small peninsula above the Adriatic, topped by the church of St. Euphemia whose bell tower is visible from the sea. Istria's food is Italy-influenced and exceptional: truffles shaved over pasta, grilled sea bass, Malvazija white wine, and the best olive oil in Croatia are all produced within cycling distance. The old town's steep cobblestone alleys are pedestrian-only and free of cars.

Rovinj was a Venetian town from 1283 to 1797 — the lion of St. Mark is carved into the town gate and Venetian architectural elements are on every corner. Austrian rule followed until 1918, then Italian annexation (1920–1945), which explains the bilingual street signs and the Italian influence on the food culture. After World War II most of the Italian population was expelled in the Istrian-Dalmatian exodus; the town repopulated slowly and remained somewhat overlooked until tourism boomed in the 1990s.

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