Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Costa Rica

Caribbean Costa Rica — Afro-Caribbean cooking, Salsa Brava surf, and slow jungle roads

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is the main town on Costa Rica's Caribbean coast south of Limón — a former Afro-Caribbean fishing village turned surf-and-jungle hub with a genuinely distinct culture from the rest of Costa Rica. The Caribbean side of the country runs on a different rhythm, eating rice and beans cooked in coconut milk (not the Pacific coast version), drinking creole-spiced tea, and speaking an English creole alongside Spanish. Salsa Brava, the powerful reef break just offshore, is Costa Rica's most technical wave and draws serious surfers from January to April.

The Caribbean coast of Costa Rica was settled by Afro-Caribbean workers brought from Jamaica and other islands to build the Atlantic Railway (completed 1890) and work the United Fruit Company banana plantations that followed. The Limonense Afro-Caribbean community developed a distinct culture — English-based creole, and a cuisine centered on coconut milk, breadfruit, and saltfish. The Bribri and Cabécar indigenous peoples, who inhabited the Talamanca valley since pre-Columbian times, still have significant communities inland from Puerto Viejo.

Featured food spots, videos & experiences in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca