Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Cambodia's capital at the confluence of three rivers — Khmer cuisine rising, a city rebuilding its story

Phnom Penh sits at the confluence of the Mekong, Tonle Sap, and Bassac rivers — one of the most dramatically sited capital cities in Southeast Asia, with the whole riverfront promenade lit at night and a skyline that is visibly changing year by year. Khmer cuisine (amok fish in banana-leaf cups, lok lak beef stir-fry, kuy teav noodle broth, bai sach chrouk pork-and-rice at dawn) is finally receiving serious international attention after decades overshadowed by its neighbors. The city carries profound history — French colonial grandeur, brief independence, the Khmer Rouge's systematic destruct…

Phnom Penh became Cambodia's capital in 1432 after the fall of Angkor Thom to the Thai Kingdom of Ayutthaya, with the Khmer court retreating south to the river confluence. French colonial rule from 1863 to 1953 gave the city its riverside boulevards, grand public buildings, and the first generation of modernist Khmer architecture. In the 1960s, under architect Vann Molyvann and a generation of Khmer architects trained in Paris, Phnom Penh produced some of the most significant modernist buildings in Southeast Asia — the 'New Khmer Architecture' that blended Corbusian geometry with traditional…