Nampula, Mozambique

Northern Mozambique's gateway — coconut piri-piri, the Macua people, and the road to Ilha de Moçambique

Nampula is the largest city in northern Mozambique and the commercial hub of the Macua-speaking north — a fast-growing, largely unvisited city that is the jumping-off point for Ilha de Moçambique (UNESCO) and the Quirimbas Archipelago. The food is northern Mozambican: coconut-based curries (matapa with cassava leaves, coconut milk, and peanuts), caldo de amendoim (peanut broth), freshwater fish, and cassava in place of maize. The Mercado Central is one of Mozambique's most photogenic markets.

Nampula became important under Portuguese colonial rule as the administrative centre of the northern province — a planned colonial town of wide avenues and a cathedral, established formally in the 1930s. The Macua people, the largest ethnic group in Mozambique, inhabit the surrounding region and have preserved matrilineal clan structures and distinctive body scarification traditions that survived Portuguese and then FRELIMO centralisation. Nampula is now the country's fastest-growing city by population.