Nakhon Si Thammarat, Thailand

The ancient capital of the Thai south — a city of temples, shadow puppets, and forgotten royalty

Nakhon Si Thammarat is the historical heart of the Thai south — one of the oldest cities in Southeast Asia, far predating Bangkok, and a centre of Theravada Buddhism that sent monks north to spread the faith across mainland Southeast Asia. Its main temple, Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihan, has been a pilgrimage site since the 8th century and holds a Buddha relic in its 77-metre chedi that draws worshippers from across Thailand. The city is also famous for nang thalung, the southern Thai shadow puppet tradition — intricate leather puppets depicting the Ramakien epic, manipulated by skilled mast…

Nakhon Si Thammarat (ancient name Ligor or Tambralinga) was one of the first Buddhist kingdoms in Southeast Asia, with continuous settlement from at least the 2nd century CE. It was part of the Srivijaya Empire, then briefly the Khmer sphere of influence, before emerging as an independent Tambralinga kingdom that sent missions to China and became a centre of Theravada Buddhism. It was historically a conduit for Buddhist teachings moving north into Sukhothai and the kingdoms that would become modern Thailand — some scholars argue that Theravada Buddhism as practised throughout mainland Southea…

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