Mbabane, Eswatini

The last absolute monarchy in Africa — royal ceremonies, Swazi craft and Hlane safaris

Mbabane is the capital of Eswatini (formerly Swaziland), one of the world's last absolute monarchies and the smallest country in the southern hemisphere. The city sits in the Mbabane River valley in the Highveld hills at 1,243 metres, a pleasant highland capital with strong local craft markets, a Swazi cultural village, and the royal reed dance ceremony (Umhlanga) that draws thousands each September when young women present cut reeds to the Queen Mother. The Hlane Royal National Park is the country's largest wildlife reserve and home to white rhinos, lions, and elephants — all within two hour…

The Kingdom of eSwatini traces its origins to the 18th century when the Dlamini clan established dominance over the central highveld. The kingdom avoided absorption by both the Zulu Empire to the south and Boer settlers to the west through a combination of military alliance and diplomatic cunning — accepting British protection in 1903 rather than becoming part of the Union of South Africa. Independence came in 1968 under King Sobhuza II, who abolished the constitution in 1973 and declared himself absolute monarch. Today King Mswati III rules the country as sub-Saharan Africa's last absolute m…