Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

The most beautiful lake in the world — volcanic calderas, Mayan villages, and cacao

Lake Atitlán is a volcanic caldera lake at 1,560m altitude in the Guatemalan Highlands — described by Aldous Huxley as 'the most beautiful lake in the world' and widely agreed to be exactly that. Three volcanoes (Atitlán, Tolimán, San Pedro) frame a lake ringed by 12 Tz'utujil and Kaqchikel Maya villages, each with its own distinct textile tradition, language variant, and personality: San Pedro La Laguna has the budget hostels and language schools; San Marcos La Laguna draws the yoga retreat crowd; Santiago Atitlán is the most traditionally Maya, home to the cult of Maximón (a syncretic Maya-…

The Atitlán basin was densely settled by the Kaqchikel and Tz'utujil Maya when the Spanish arrived in the 1520s — Pedro de Alvarado's army fought the lakeside Maya polities in some of the bloodiest encounters of the Guatemala conquest. The lake's 12 villages were established as doctrinas (mission settlements) by the Franciscans in the 16th century; each kept its distinct Maya identity despite colonial pressure. A 1976 earthquake destroyed much of the lakeside infrastructure; a 2005 hurricane caused devastating mudslides. The villages have rebuilt their traditional weaving and textile commerce…