Argentina's Andean soul — rainbow-striped Quebrada de Humahuaca, Incan roads, and empanadas de humita that taste like nothing else in the country
San Salvador de Jujuy is the capital of Argentina's northernmost Andean province — a city at 1,260 metres altitude surrounded by the psychedelically coloured Quebrada de Humahuaca canyon (UNESCO World Heritage), one of the most dramatically beautiful valleys in South America. The province is where the Argentine Andes meet the altiplano and the Puna desert, producing a highland culture with deep Andean roots: Pachamama (Mother Earth) ceremonies, carnival processions with elaborately costumed dancers, and a food culture built around corn (humita, tamales), quinoa, llama, and the best empanadas…
Jujuy province sits on the ancient Qhapaq Ñan — the Inca road network that connected the empire from Cusco to the southern Andes. The Quebrada de Humahuaca was a major route of the Inca expansion southward in the 15th century, and numerous pucará (Inca fortresses) still dot the canyon walls. The colonial city was founded in 1593 by Francisco de Argañaraz y Murguía. Jujuy played a crucial role in Argentine independence: General Manuel Belgrano ordered the 'Jujuy Exodus' in 1812, commanding the entire civilian population to evacuate the city ahead of the advancing Spanish royalist army — a scor…