Karst towers, sacred caves, and Kayin serenity
Hpa-An is the capital of Kayin (Karen) State in southeastern Myanmar and the country's most visually dramatic destination — a small town on the Thanlwin River surrounded by limestone karst towers rising from flat paddy fields, each honeycombed with Buddhist caves and pagodas. Rent a motorbike and you can visit Kyauk Kalat (a pagoda on a single spike of rock rising from a lake), Saddan Cave (where the exit is by boat through an underground river), and Mount Zwegabin (topped with a monastery, 723m) in a single long day. It is intimate and walkable in a way Myanmar's larger cities are not.
Hpa-An has been the cultural centre of the Karen (Kayin) people for centuries — Myanmar's second-largest ethnic group, with distinct languages, dress, and a branch of Theravada Buddhism deeply tied to Karen identity. The Thanlwin River marks ancient trade routes between the Mon kingdom and the Shan Plateau, and the limestone caves have been Buddhist pilgrimage sites for over a thousand years. The area saw conflict following the 2021 military coup — travellers should verify current conditions before visiting.