Gouda, Netherlands

Where the orange wheels roll — cheese market, stroopwafels, and medieval candlelit Christmas

Gouda is a compact canal town in South Holland whose name travels the world on every wheel of its semi-hard cow's milk cheese. The Thursday Cheese Market (April–August) on the Markt square is one of the most photogenic traditional markets in Europe — cheese porters in traditional white outfits carrying wheels on wooden sleds, inspectors cutting samples, and the elaborate hand-clapping ritual of price negotiation unchanged for centuries. The Markt square, one of the largest in the Netherlands, is anchored by the magnificent City Hall (1450) and the Sint-Janskerk, whose 70 stained glass windows…

Gouda received city rights in 1272 and developed as a trading town on the Hollandsche IJssel River. The cheese that made it famous was being traded in its weekly market from at least 1395. Unlike many cheese names that traveled with Dutch traders, Gouda actually originates from here — it was the market town where cheese from the surrounding polder farms was weighed and sold rather than the cheese being made in Gouda itself. Erasmus, the great Renaissance humanist, was briefly educated at the local monastery school. The Gouda candlelight ceremony on the Thursday before Christmas, when the Mark…

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