Bluefields, Nicaragua

Nicaragua's Caribbean Soul — the rain-soaked Afro-Caribbean port city accessible only by boat or plane where Creole English competes with Spanish, reggae drifts from wooden houses on stilts, lobster costs less than a bus fare, and the May Pole Festival is the most exuberant celebration on the Atlantic Coast

Bluefields is the capital of Nicaragua's South Caribbean Coast Autonomous Region — an isolated port city on a large lagoon that is essentially a different country from Pacific Nicaragua: the language is Creole English (a dialect descended from English, West African languages, and Miskitu), the music is reggae and punta rather than marimba, the food is rice and beans with coconut milk and lobster rather than gallo pinto, and the population is predominantly Afro-Caribbean Creole, Miskitu Indigenous, and Rama Indigenous — descendants of people brought as enslaved labourers by the British, or sur…

Bluefields takes its name from a Dutch pirate, Abraham Blauvelt (also spelled Blauveldt), who used the bay as an anchorage in the 1630s. The British established a Mosquito Coast protectorate in 1740 over the region's Miskitu Kingdom (a confederation of Miskitu Indigenous people who allied with the British against Spanish expansion in Central America); Bluefields became the capital of the Miskitu Kingdom and the centre of British commercial interests on the coast. The British brought enslaved West Africans to work in the turtle shell trade, timber operations, and domestic service — their desce…